Coarse kosher salt quickly tenderizes cheap cuts of lamb, and oranges and pomegranate molasses combine with roasted golden beets for a lively winter salad.
While I occasionally turn Blue Kitchen over to Marion for a post, in real life, we’re often in the kitchen together making a meal happen. That was the case recently for this quick weeknight dinner. So this week, you’ll find a pair of cooking posts. I’ll start off by telling you about the lamb; then in the second post, Marion will tell you about a beet salad with oranges and blue cheese quickly assembled using beets roasted the night before.
British music hall comedian Max Wall once said, “Show business is like sex. When it’s wonderful, it’s wonderful. But when it isn’t very good, it’s still all right.” That’s pretty much how I feel about lamb. It was love at first bite the first time I had roast leg of lamb. And lamb chops always catch my eye on restaurant menus.
But more modest cuts have their own lamby charm, especially now, with daily economic headlines making us all want to just pull the covers over our heads. One such cut is lamb shoulder arm chops. Cut from the arm portion of shoulder, these inexpensive chops are quite flavorful, but can also be on the chewy side. As Fox Fire Farms’ website puts it, “This does not mean the shoulder chop is not tender or of secondary quality. It simply means you can’t be in a hurry when cooking this delightful lamb chop.” They’re best suited for slow braising, which tenderizes them; but during the week, I have neither the time nor the patience.
Kosher salt to the rescue. Well, and Jaden over at Steamy Kitchen. I first used her technique for tenderizing steaks—by heavily coating them with coarse salt for 15 minutes or so before cooking—when I made Pan Seared Steaks with Chimichurri Sauce back in January. It worked so beautifully that I immediately had to try it on some tough but tasty lamb shoulder chops. What I discovered was a way to enjoy tender lamb without sticker shock or a long wait.
Pan Grilled Lamb Shoulder Chops with Rosemary
Serves 2
2 bone-in lamb shoulder arm or blade chops, 6 to 8 ounces each
coarse kosher salt [you can also use coarse sea salt]
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary needles [or 1-1/2 teaspoons dry]
freshly ground black pepper to taste
canola oil [or other high smoke point cooking oil]
Place lamb chops on plate and salt generously with coarse kosher salt or sea salt on both sides, as much as a teaspoon per side. Set aside for 15 to 20 minutes. Rinse chops under cold running water and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels. Season on both sides with freshly ground black pepper and rosemary. DO NOT ADD ANY MORE SALT.
Heat a ridged grill pan over medium-high to high heat. [You can also use a regular skillet, but lamb tends to be fatty and throw off a lot of rendered fat; I personally don't get this, because they look so skinny and fluffy.] Drizzle some canola oil in the pan and brush it around to coat the ridges. Add chops to pan and cook on one side for about 4 minutes. Turn and cook on the second side for about 2 minutes for medium rare. Plate and serve.
A couple of quick notes
Lamb and beets? Unbeatable. Marion’s beet salad in the next post was a perfect foil for the meaty richness of the lamb—bright, tart and earthy. A nicely complex mix that comes together quickly.
Read all about it, er, me. I was just interviewed by Nina for the November newsletter of Chicago Locavores, even though I warned her that I’m a locavore newbie. Read the interview and check out the rest of this exciting resource for shopping, cooking and eating local.
{ 16 comments… read them below or add one }
Isn’t that a great technique? I first heard about “salting” from Alton Brown. Now I do it with chicken and cheaper cuts of beef. Can’t say that I have done it with lamb. I tend to shy away from the shoulder cut unless I am grinding it or roasting larger cuts.
This dish sounds great expecially with the rosemary.
Thanks Terry,
I am not a big lamb lover and the past few times I’ve had it, it was bland in taste. I didn’t think about the Kosher salt idea and I use the same brand on all my cooking. Maybe now I won’t be afraid to try cooking lamb in the future!
That looks insanely good!
Donald—Rosemary is often my go-to seasoning when I’m cooking lamb. Another is garlic. When we do a leg of lamb, it’s both!
Kim—I’ve heard lamb called many things, but never bland. Try the salt, along with some rosemary. I tend to undersalt food when I’m cooking, but this method seasons the lamb nicely. Too much salt is bad, of course, but I find that if something is tasting a little bland, adding a little more salt doesn’t necessarily make the food taste salty, but instead livens up the flavors there.
Thanks for stopping by, Olga!
What a beautiful blog you have. I love the salt method. I tried it with steaks and pork chops and it worked well.
yum!
honestly, Mark and I have to start cooking more often. It’s embarrassing how often we eat out because of our schedules.
Your blog inspires me to turn on my stove!
hey did you read this amazing article in the New Yorker several weeks ago? It’s about the restaurant Alinea in Chicago. Have you been there?
Here’s the link.
Thanks, Lisa! I haven’t tried salting pork chops yet. Okay, that’s next on my to-do list.
kitty—I totally understand the schedule thing. If you poke around here at Blue Kitchen, you’ll find lots of meals that come together pretty quickly. We have not, in fact, been to Alinea. Achatz, along with the experimental chefs behind Moto here, is redefining the art of cooking with science. And while I’m glad it’s happening here in Chicago, our tastes tend to run more toward Asian and neighborhood bistro cuisines.
That salt tip is great – I will be trying that technique very soon!
Your lamb chops looks amazing… I think I might have to buy some lamb in the next couple days!
I’m a huge, HUGE fan of both lamb chops and beets. I need to get some of that Pomegranate Molasses. I keep coming across great recipes in which to ultilize it!
Those lamb chops look really tasty! They would go well with those beets.
Good call on the salting and from a lover of lamb, that whole plate looks delicious! Plus rosemary and lamb are a match made in heaven
thanks for the tip on the coarse salt! never knew that. and this dish looks amazing. gosh im’ hungry already.
I tried the lamb chops (shoulders) with the sea salt changed up on the seasoning but this little trick worked the lamb was great It melted in our mouths thank you very much
Made this last night and it turned out great. Used a cast iron skillet instead of the grill and sauteed some mushrooms in the pan with butter and red wine after the lamb came out. Very easy recipe. We’ll definitely make this again.
Amazing lamb shoulder chops!!! I added some garlic and freshly squeezed lemon and they came out great! Thanks! Great Valentine’s Day dinner! My husband enjoyed it!