Big flavor drives Cuban seafood dish, not big heat

Cuban-inspired Fish Fillets and Tomatoes rely on garlic, cumin, cilantro and capers to deliver big flavor; crushed red pepper flakes add just a touch of heat. Recipe below.

cuban-fish-tomatoes

When a Cuban-inspired seafood dish caught my eye recently, I was intrigued as much by what wasn’t there as what was. Where were the chiles? Where was the heat? Sure, the recipe called for red pepper flakes, but a mere 1/8-teaspoonful. That wouldn’t even register on our heat-loving palates.

But then I thought about the Cuban sandwich place near my office. The sandwiches I’ve had there all aim for savory flavors, with little or no heat. The salsas they bring to the table alongside follow this pattern too—only one of the two is at all spicy, and even then, not in the sinus-opening way salsas found in Mexican restaurants can be.

So I did a little research. It seems that fiery heat just isn’t part of the Cuban culinary vocabulary. In fact, the most commonly used spices are cumin, oregano and bay leaves. Another popular flavoring is sofrito, slow-cooked onions, garlic and bell peppers; other secondary ingredients such as cilantro and tomatoes might be added too.

One basic seafood dish pops up all over the Internet. I used it as a starting point, but added some more big flavors to get it a little closer to what I’d read about Cuban cuisine. And then just to be cantankerous, I amped up the heat a bit. Less than authentic, I know, but oh so good.

Cuban-inspired Fish Fillets and Tomatoes
Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium-large onion, sliced thin
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
4 to 5 cups seeded, chopped tomatoes (see Kitchen Notes)
1 cup dry white wine
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup capers, drained but not rinsed
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (see Kitchen Notes)
4 6-ounce fish fillets (I used cod—see Kitchen Notes)
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1-1/2 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup chopped cilantro, divided

Heat oil in a large lidded skillet over medium flame. Sauté onions until they begin to soften, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes. Add garlic to pan and cook until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Stir in cumin, mixing thoroughly. Add tomatoes to the pan and cook until they begin to soften, stirring occasionally, 6 to 8 minutes. Add wine, bay leaf, capers and red pepper flakes, stirring to combine.

Season fish fillets with salt and pepper and arrange on top of tomato mixture in pan. Cover and reduce heat to low. Simmer until fish is just cooked through, 8 to 12 minutes, depending on thickness of the fillets. Fish will flake easily with a fork when it is done. Gently transfer fish to a platter and tent with foil to keep warm.

Increase the heat to medium high and stir in butter in slices. Cook for 2 or so minutes to slightly reduce the sauce—it will still be soupy, and that’s okay. Remove from heat and stir in half of the cilantro. Divide the tomato mixture among four shallow bowls, reserving just a bit of the buttery sauce (pasta bowls are great for this dish). Sprinkle the remaining cilantro over the tomatoes and place a fish fillet in each bowl. Spoon the remaining buttery sauce over the fillets and serve.

Kitchen Notes

Tomatoes, tomahtoes. I’ve made this dish a couple of times now. The first time, I used regular tomatoes; the second time, plum tomatoes. Palates more discerning than mine might have noticed a difference, but I didn’t. Use what you have on hand. As the summer starts producing a sudden rush of tomatoes in the garden, they will no doubt be perfect for this.

Heat things up. Again, the 1/2 teaspoon of red pepper flakes I used here is probably less than authentic, but it added a nice kick without being fiery. Honestly, if you’re thinking of using the 1/8 teaspoon the original recipe called for, don’t even bother. You won’t notice it.

Go fish. What you’re looking for here is a nice white fish with semi-firm flesh, something that won’t totally fall apart on you. I used cod, but halibut, sea bass, red snapper and grouper are some others that would work too. Avoid delicate fish such as sole; it will disintegrate before your eyes when you try to transfer it first from the pan and then into the serving dishes.

17 thoughts on “Big flavor drives Cuban seafood dish, not big heat

  1. S—With all the big flavors at work here, you could honestly just use water. Something more assertive like beer would probably get in the way.

  2. Thank you, thank you, thank you! I’m drowning in tomatoes now. Neighbors are pulling their shades and locking their door when they see me walk the street with my brown paper bag.

    This dish looks and sounds sooooo good. If I can pull it off.

  3. I love this, it looks just about perfect for a summer dinner. Glad you added a bit of extra heat by the way…I enjoy Cuban food so much but sometimes it needs a little zest, you know? I just made a gumbo recipe (not Cuban I realize but it has a lot of similar ingredients so I was reminded of it) and it fell a little flat. I may have to apply some of your big flavors to it!

  4. Oooh, yummm! I haven’t had halibut in ages and this sounds scrumptious! Thanks for another great recipe, Terry.

  5. Now you’ve got me wanting gumbo, Laura!

    I think you’ll like it, Dani. When we had this, it also occurred to us that the tomato mixture would play well with sautéed chicken breasts or even pork chops, just finishing them in the pan with the tomatoes.

  6. Cuban food is not really spicy at all. That is a generalization. I have a couple of Cuban friends and they told me that Cuban food does not use a lot of chile at all- mainly herbs and black pepper and citrus juice. So that little dab of red pepper flakes is right.

    I went to a Cuban restaurant in Sarasota a few years back and there was no chile used in any of the food but they did offer a homemade hot sauce on the side if you wanted it. With the name El Habanero you would think there was heat. Nope, it means The Pepper, that is all it means. Not The Hot Pepper. I ate yucca cooked like mashed potato and some fish. I dribbled a lot of the homemade sauce all over it.

  7. Well, we just cleaned up after trying this really tasty meal! We loved this recipe and will be adding this one to our repertoire. Good one.

  8. Thanks for confirming what I’ve been reading, RisaG.

    It was exactly that, Alta—nice and fresh tasting.

    Eva—I love to hear from someone who tries one of my recipes. And even more so when that person likes it! Thanks!

    Cooking Tutorials—I hope she likes it.

  9. wow ! this dish looks so colourful and flavorful.
    i notice that the ingredients used are similar to cook fish curry.
    If u r interested in Indian and Malay Food, do visit my bloghttp://vishalicookbook.blogspot.com

    thanks,
    Cheers!

  10. Very good. This has made it into the rotation. Served it with fried plantains, cuban black beans and rice seasoned with cumin. And mojitos.

  11. could you make the basic sauce in advance and cook the fish right before serving? I am thinking of making as a buffet dish for a party i am going to.

  12. Larry, you could definitely make the sauce ahead, but this sounds like a lot of work at the last minute for a party you’re attending, not hosting. Would your host be open to you taking over the kitchen or at least a burner on the stove?

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