A crisp, lively welcome for reluctant spring: Chinese Sesame Asparagus Salad

by Terry B on April 20, 2011

This chilled Chinese salad makes the most of minimal preparation and four simple ingredients—asparagus, soy sauce, sesame oil and toasted sesame seeds. Recipe below.

sesame-asparagus-salad

It snowed Monday night in Chicago. Still, it’s officially spring, and beautifully thin asparagus is starting to turn up in grocery stores—and along some roadsides. So I’m going to turn the kitchen over to Marion and let her tell you (and me) about her foraging adventures before we met.

Asparagus wasn’t my first experience with gathering food from the wild—that would have been mushroom and berry picking, when I was a kid—but it was my first great breakthrough as an adult, when I had half forgotten the experiences of my childhood. That you could wade into all that mixed weedy stuff by the roadside and come out with a handful of tender! young! asparagus! (and for free, I might add) was a revelation.

At about this time of year, I would prowl along the roadside, walking up and down (and, to be honest, sometimes creeping along in the car) looking for the telltale signs—the best indicator being the pale brushy tree-shaped skeletons of last year’s crop gone to seed.

If you are hunting for wild asparagus, here are some tips. First, it sprouts a little ahead of the cultivated varieties. It likes full sun—you won’t find it in the woods. It likes moist, rich soil but not to have its feet wet. It’s easy to find along the edges of fields and by the roadside, but choose your roadside well. I see lots of asparagus along the superhighways, but I would never pick it—if the soil is contaminated, the asparagus will be too.

The wild asparagus we find in North America is actually not a native plant. It is from the Old World, the descendant of escapees from Colonial gardens. In Europe, it seems to have originated around the Mediterranean, but even in ancient times had spread, through cultivation, across the continent and even into Egypt. Now it is grown all over the world and, of course, has moved into many climates, and into many cuisines. This recipe, for instance, is Chinese, and China is one of the world’s largest growers of commercial asparagus. (The leading exporter of asparagus, says Wikipedia, is Peru.)

This is a simple salad that is so fast and easy to make that this is more a description than a recipe.  It is best with very slender asparagus. You can put it together in a few minutes, and do it all a couple of hours ahead of dinner if you wish or very immediately beforehand.

Chinese Sesame Asparagus Salad
Serves four to six

1 pound thin asparagus (see Kitchen Notes)
4 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon water
1 tablespoon white sesame seeds, toasted

Half fill a flat-bottom bowl or container with cold water and lots of ice cubes. Put about a half inch of water in a flat-bottomed nonstick skillet, cover it and bring the water to a boil. Scatter the asparagus in the water so it is well spaced and lying flat. Cover immediately and set a timer for 60 seconds. When the timer beeps, working fast, take off the lid, carefully lift out the asparagus with tongs and place it straight into the iced water. The asparagus should still be bright green. When you have moved all the asparagus into the iced water, stir the water gently around the stalks with your hands to make sure the asparagus cools as fast as possible.

Let it sit in the water for a minute while you mix together the soy sauce, sesame oil and 1 tablespoon of water.

Lift the asparagus from the iced water and blot it a bit on a lint-free cloth, then put it in a flat-bottomed dish. (I use a glass pie plate.) Pour the dressing all over it, cover with a piece of waxed paper or a pot lid, and set in the refrigerator for a few minutes.

Toast the sesame seeds. Heat a dry nonstick skillet over medium heat, then when it is hot pour in the sesame seeds. Stir them with a spatula over the heat until they are nicely toasted. Don’t let them get too dark—a light brown will do it. This should take about three minutes. Pour them into a bowl.

Assemble the salad. To serve the asparagus, place stalks all together on a platter, or divide onto individual plates. Spoon a little of the dressing around the stalks, then scatter the seeds all around, and there you are. The sweetness of the asparagus, the salt intensity of the dressing, the nutty flavor of the sesame seeds: this is marvelous. Eat it with your fingers.

Kitchen Notes

All about asparagus. We choose really thin asparagus whenever possible. If you prefer thicker asparagus, cook longer accordingly. The mid-sized stalks that are widely available in stores should be cooked for about 90 seconds. I don’t recommend the very thick, cigar-sized asparagus for this dish.

To prep the stalks for cooking, rinse them quickly, then hold the bottom end in both hands and bend it until it snaps. That’s how to tell the best place to trim the stalk—it’s where the stalk naturally snaps.

All about foraging asparagus. Asparagus is a perennial, meaning it will sprout in the same place year after year. Once you locate a patch of it in the wild, you will find it there forever, or until something bad happens to that spot (for instance, road widening, or housing development, or a straying plow). If you do hunt asparagus in the wild, don’t overpick a patch; let the tiny stalks mature so you don’t set back the plant. If you find a patch near your home during the summer, don’t pick it; that won’t encourage the plant to throw fresh stalks, but it will harm it.  Mark the spot for next year.

Of course, we all already know how to look for asparagus in grocery stores, where you are guaranteed uniformity of size and appearance.

Finally, watch out! Asparagus isn’t the only thing growing out there. Years back, one of my favorite patches could only be reached by navigating past some sticker bushes and around a nasty tangle of poison ivy, which loves exactly the same environs as asparagus.

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{ 18 comments… read them below or add one }

Toni April 20, 2011 at 4:13 am

Seems we’re all craving something green these days. We might not get snow, but it’s been cool and gray here.

Now you’ve got me craving asparagus – which isn’t hard to do, but I can almost taste this! Drool….. ;-)

natalie (the sweets life) April 20, 2011 at 12:15 pm

we eat SO much asparagus come spring…I can’t wait to try this version!

Cynthia Fox-Giddens April 20, 2011 at 4:10 pm

I like this recipe and learning more about asparagus. A perfect salad for spring indeed!

Stephen Dilley April 20, 2011 at 4:13 pm

Looks like the perfect Easter side dish, can’t wait to try!

karen April 20, 2011 at 7:18 pm

Have you ever tried grilling asparagus?
It’s my favourite way to eat it.
We just toss it in a little olive oil, season with salt flakes like Maldon seasalt and put it on a hot grill pan for a minute or two – depending on the size. You can then proceed to eat whichever way, dressed with the sesame would be good but I wouldn’t grill it with that as I don’t think that intense heat would be good for the sesame.

Emanuel S. April 20, 2011 at 9:50 pm

Spring is reluctant this year! I like asparagus grilled, or sauteed for a really short time, like almost burning it then eating it right up. With lots of garlic. I like everything with too much garlic!

Marcia April 20, 2011 at 10:35 pm

Great recipe! I’ll be making it this week.

evi April 21, 2011 at 12:45 am

Wow does one find roadside asparagus? I grew up in NYC so I am totally ignorant about foraging for food outside of pizza joints. Can you find it in the midwest? I think that’s pretty cool.

Marion April 21, 2011 at 1:57 am

Thanks, Toni!

Natalie, we’ve had this twice in the past week and I am ready to have it again. I hope you like it.

Cynthia, I think you’ll enjoy it.

Stephen, what a nice idea for livening up the Easter table!

Karen, yes, we have, and we looooooooove it.

Emanuel, it really is being a chilly spring. We just came back from a walk along the lakefront – we chose today because it looks like this will be the best day of the week. But oh man we were cold.

Marcia, enjoy!

evi, yes, all over the Midwest, but also all over upstate New York.

John Hobson April 22, 2011 at 12:29 pm

A woman I knew in Italy gave me this sauce for asparagus

2 oranges (she used blood oranges, but navel oranges work) — you want about 250 ml (1 cup) juice
1 tablespoon cornstarch
3 tablespoons white wine
1 tsp lemon juice
20 gm (3/4 oz) unsalted butter, at room temperature
salt and white pepper to taste

Squeeze the oranges to get the juice. In a small saucepan, combine the orange juice, cornstarch, wine and lemon juice, cooking over medium heat until thickened (3 minutes, give or take). Remove from heat and stir in the butter until the sauce is smooth. Keep warm.

Put the cooked asparagus on individual plates, pour the orange sauce over the asparagus and serve. She garnished it with chopped walnuts, I have used sliced almonds. Or you can omit the nuts.

Terry B April 22, 2011 at 3:50 pm

John—You keep coming up with so many good recipes that I fully expect you to start your own blog any day now!

Eeka April 22, 2011 at 8:36 pm

My asparagus revelation this year was… RAW! i bought some gorgeous slender spears, and was snapping them as you describe… and could not keep from nibbling at the snapped off ends… Divine! I put the spears in a glass of water for use the next day… and kept opening the fridge to sneak another (must be craving something fresh and green). Perhaps best of all, as I am an ‘excreeter’ and a ‘detector’, eating it raw did not result in that ucky asparagus smell later…

Eeka April 22, 2011 at 8:38 pm

oops, got carried away… your recipe sounds great, will try it… wonder how sesame oil, etc will taste on raw asparagus…. great, I bet…

Marion April 23, 2011 at 12:47 am

Give it a try, eeka! One of the things about picking wild asparagus is that you end up doing that, eating it right on the spot.

Jenn (Cookies Cupcakes Cardio) April 23, 2011 at 5:46 am

Our asparagus is off to a LATE start…and won’t be ready until the end of May. It snowed last night! Yuck. When I finally get some, I’ll be making this dish. It sounds (and looks) delicious.

Marion April 26, 2011 at 12:57 pm

Jenn, I think you will like it, once things start coming up in BC. And we will already be missing it, staring at the cigar-sized imports on the store shelves and saying Are you sure that’s it?

Alta April 27, 2011 at 4:33 pm

I never knew there was wild asparagus to be foraged! Most likely not around the North Texas area though. There’s not much to be foraged around here – dandelion greens and cactus paddles, that’s about all I know about! This recipe looks great.

Marion April 28, 2011 at 4:15 am

Thanks, Alta! I don’t know about finding wild asparagus in North Texas, but it’s really nice to cook up some dandelion greens at this time of year! They remind you spring is coming, or, given the forecasts up here, that spring is considering showing up one of these days (my way of saying tomorrow will be in the mid 40s). At least the redwing blackbirds have arrived.

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