Paul Greenberg offers three simple rules for eating seafood, and we offer five simple recipes for delicious, sustainable mussels.
Everyone tells us to eat more seafood. It’s a low-fat, high-protein food that’s good for our hearts, our brains. But then we’re warned that pregnant women and small children should avoid canned tuna. That certain species are being overfished to the point of unsustainability. And that many forms of fish farming are wreaking havoc on the environment. So what do we eat? Or not eat? In this Sunday’s New York Times, Paul Greenberg offered three simple rules.
Greenberg is the author of the New York Times bestseller Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food and American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood. In his piece this Sunday, “Three Simple Rules for Eating Seafood,” he explains how we can eat seafood that is good for us, for seafood and for the environment. I’ll share a link to the article at the end of this post, but for now, I’d like to focus on one of his simple rules: eat “mostly farmed filter feeders.”
The problem with most farmed fish—especially salmon—is that at least part their diet is other fish. Specifically wild fish. Filter feeders—such as mussels and oysters—strain their food from the water, naturally occurring microscopic phytoplankton. Not only do they not feed on wild fish, they actually help clean the water. According to Greenberg, mussels “have levels of omega-3s similar to most canned tuna, without the mercury burden” tuna can carry.
We love mussels. They’re quick and easy to cook. They play well with a wide range of flavorings and cuisines. Unlike many seafood choices, they’re really affordable—generally $2 to $4 a pound. And they offer the undeniable pleasure of eating with your hands. Here are five ways we’ve cooked these delicious “farmed filter feeders” here at Blue Kitchen.
Moules Marinières (Sailor’s Mussels)
In this post, you’ll find two delicious French-inspired recipes. Shown in the photo above, mussels steamed in wine with shallots, garlic and lots of parsley and oven-fried pommes frites flavored with herbes de Provence.
Mussels with Fennel and Star Anise
Classic European ingredients—wine, butter, fennel, shallots, garlic, tomatoes—are given an Asian twist with star anise in this recipe. Make sure to read the Kitchen Note on this post, please. Mussels are alive when you buy them and when you cook them. I’ve seen too many recipes that inadvertently have you mistreat them—soaking them in cold (chlorinated) water, starting them in cold cooking liquids. This post tells you how to respect them and treat them well.
Mussels in Tarragon Cream Sauce
You’ll definitely want a nice baguette to soak up the rich broth—butter, cream, vermouth—in this dish.
Curried Mussels with Cilantro
Curry powder, garlic, shallots, lemongrass, coconut milk, wine and cilantro all come together to create a surprisingly delicate broth for these steamed mussels.
Baked Mussels with Saffron and Tomatoes
Here, mussels aren’t steamed—they’re quickly baked over sautéed scallions, garlic, parsley, oregano, saffron and tomatoes. The recipe is adapted from Marissa Guggiana’s cookbook, Off the Menu: Staff Meals from America’s Top Restaurants.
Find out more about Greenberg’s simple rules for eating seafood. Read his article here.
I read Greenberg’s article, and thought it very good. And also wondered why I don’t prepare mussels more often! As you point out they’re relatively inexpensive, and they play so well with flavorful ingredients, especially garlic. So thanks for this great collection of mussel recipes! Loads to explore here . 🙂
I am completely intimidated by mussels. That we never had them at home and I’ve only had them a few times in restaurants are factors, but mainly it’s because so many recipes/instructions begin with “This is how you can tell if it’s a good mussel, and you must be vigilant because if you get a bad one you will suffer a whole lot of gastrointestinal agony before dying.” OK, I exaggerate a bit. But that’s why I’ve never had mussels or oysters at home.
Thanks, John!
Anita, here’s all you need to know about mussels being okay. When you start to clean them (and cleaning is really minimal with farmed mussels, which you are most likely to encounter), if any mussels are open, give the shell a good tap. If it doesn’t close, throw it out. If the shell is cracked, throw it out. When you cook them, if any don’t open, throw them out. Everything else is good to go. If you like ordering them in restaurants, do try cooking them at home. Easy peasy.
Tarragon Cream Sauce ! These look amazing. Thank you for sharing !
I’m pretty much only eating sustainable seafood now though finding the source is sometimes difficult.
I tried mussels for the first time because of your recipe for Moules Marinières and fell in love. I also formed an addiction to herbes de Provence ~ I don’t think I’ve had a roast chicken seasoned any other way the past five years! I keep thinking I’ll do something different, but like I said, it’s become an addiction. {Smile} I also discovered ancho chile powder when making your Mexican fruit salad and now it’s almost the only kind I use, especially with avocados.
Much gratitude to you, Terry, for expanding my palate. I hope all is well with you and your family. Have a wonderful summer.
Love your post! We enjoy cooking mussels at home; it’s always an excellent communal dish to enjoy with guests. There’s something about sitting around a pot of steaming mussels and tearing off warm bread and dipping it into the broth…perfect.