Three modest reds from Spain that are delightful and easy to drink.
For a long time now, my preferred nightcap has been a glass of red wine. I am always migrating among different varietals, and for a while now I’ve been drinking a lot of monastrells from Spain.
Monastrell, called Mourvèdre in France and Mataro in Australia, is one of the world’s ancient varietals—Wikipedia says it most likely was brought to Spain around 500 BC by the Phoenicians. The same grape grows in France, in the US and in Australia, sometimes being bottled on its own and sometimes making its way into blends. In Spain, the hot, dry climate suits it admirably, and it is widely planted in eastern regions like Yecla, Alicante and Jumilla. [click to continue…]
Scallops with Smoky Chipotle Butter, Tomato Salad and Cornbread is actually three separate recipes. All are good on their own, but together they’re a restaurant-inspired, restaurant-worthy meal. Recipes below.
A few weeks back, I had to go to New York City on business. It was two days of intense meetings that actually turned out to be productive and valuable. At the end of the first day, we all went to dinner together. Someone in the New York office chose the venue, in part because it was near the office: Bobby Flay’s Bar Americain. I thought great, another giant midtown eating hall. But you know? It was terrific. Everything was delicious. Everything was interesting. The room was handsome, and the waitstaff was knowledgeable and invested. I had a ball. It was a delightful evening with great colleagues, really a treat.
What did I have? Skate with smoked chile butter, served with a small tomato salad heaped on a circle of crispy hominy. [click to continue…]
James Beard award-winning pastry chef Gale Gand talks about her new restaurant, her new cookbook and other red hot irons she has in the fire.
Gale Gand wears a lot of toques. A co-founding partner of Chicago’s Michelin-starred Tru, world-renowned for its contemporary French tasting menus, Gale hosted the Food Network series “Sweet Dreams” for eight years, the first nationally televised all-dessert show. She appears regularly on TV shows like“Good Morning America,” “The Today Show” and “The Rachael Ray Show.” She produces her own artisanal root beer, volunteers, teaches, speaks and does cooking demonstrations. Gale also lists “mom” in her description on her website; she and her environmentalist husband Jimmy Seidita have a teenaged son and twin daughters.
Most recently, Gale opened a burger joint, SpritzBurger, with the Hearty Boys, Dan Smith and Steve McDonagh. And her eighth cookbook, Gale Gand’s Lunch!, hits bookstores this week. It seemed like a good time to check in with her. [click to continue…]
Lamb Navarin combines lamb, peas, carrots, new potatoes and turnips for a spring stew that is hearty, but lighter tasting than beef stew. Recipe below.
Many recipes here are inspired by cookbooks. This one was inspired by a novel. The World at Night is set mainly in Paris, in the early 1940s, during the time of German occupation. To call it a tale of intrigue and romance is accurate enough, but falls far short of doing it justice.
American-born author Alan Furst has lived in Paris for long periods, and he creates a masterfully nuanced picture of place and time. The daily privations of wartime rationing—food, coal for heat, cigarettes—are made vivid. And the threat of danger, real, personal and ever-present, is palpable. But so is the enduring beauty of Paris and the daily lives of its citizens, even during war, expressed in perfect, quiet details. [click to continue…]
Cooking Comically takes a comic book approach to presenting “recipes so easy you’ll actually make them.” A Commonplace Book of Pies redefines everything we thought we knew about pie through prose poems, humor and, yes, recipes.
We know we all need to cook more. Stuff we cook for ourselves is generally healthier and can save us money. There are many serious efforts out there to get us doing that. Here’s a refreshingly silly one that’s seriously effective. Tyler Capps, a freelance graphic artist and self-taught cook, started Cooking Comically as a website after an online comic strip recipe he created, “2 A.M. Chili,” went viral, racking up millions of views. And now it’s a cookbook. [click to continue…]
Roasted asparagus spears are topped with sautéed bacon and shallots and a poached egg for a light lunch. Recipe below.
Asparagus season is upon us again, a promising sign of the reluctant spring. (Yes, asparagus is available pretty much year-round, but now is when it’s at its best.) First, the pencil-thin spears started showing up in the produce department, requiring little more than a quick blanch to render them bright green, crisp and delicious.
Next come thicker, “standard” spears, also good for a quick dip in boiling water, but equally wonderful—and perhaps more intensely flavored—when roasted or grilled. During these two stages, we greedily eat as much asparagus as many different ways as we can. Because next come the cigar-fat spears, so tough that you have to shave them. No, thanks. We’re done for the season. [click to continue…]
For many home cooks, meat takes the biggest bite out of the food budget. There are plenty of cheap cuts, though. Some require a little extra care to tenderize them (or acceptance of the fact that their extra fat is what makes them delicious as well as affordable), but all will reward you with big flavor while saving you money. Here are five cheap cuts we love.
Lamb Shoulder Chops
Lamb’s wonderfully rich flavor is often matched by its price tag. Not these guys. Lamb shoulder chops (like the one pictured above) deliver as much or more lamby goodness as pricier (and tinier) lamb rib or loin chops. And their sometimes chewy texture can be tenderized quickly with a citrus marinade or dry brining. They also respond well to braising. [click to continue…]
A lemon juice/olive oil/tarragon marinade quickly tenderizes lamb shoulder chops and adds a lively citrus note. Recipe below.
Editor’s note: Blue Kitchen is now publishing twice weekly. Wednesdays, you’ll find fresh recipes. On Sundays, we share stories about food—new tools for the kitchen, cookbooks we like, interviews and more. Subscribe to our RSS Feed or sign up for email updates, so you don’t miss a thing.
Lamb is one of our favorite carnivorous pleasures. And shoulder lamb chops are one of our go-tos for scratching our occasional lamby itch. They’re typically one of the cheaper cuts, they cook quickly and they’re big on flavor. Unfortunately, they can also be chewy. The good news is there are simple techniques to tenderize these delicious chops. [click to continue…]
April is National Grilled Cheese Month. Cheese cookbook author Laura Werlin shares her thoughts on the iconic comfort sandwich as well as tips for making great grilled cheese. And yes, she shares a recipe too.
Editor’s note: Blue Kitchen is now publishing twice weekly. Wednesdays, you’ll find fresh recipes. On Sundays, we share stories about food—new tools for the kitchen, cookbooks we like, interviews (like this one) and more. Subscribe to our RSS Feed or sign up for email updates, so you don’t miss a thing.
Laura Werlin is an ambassador for American cheeses and author of six cookbooks on the subject. She won the prestigious James Beard award for The All American Cheese and Wine Book, published in 2003. To celebrate National Grilled Cheese Month, we caught up with the San Francisco-based Werlin to talk about her favorite subject. [click to continue…]
Juniper berries add a subtle, light freshness to pork meatballs. Wine, sherry and sour cream create a simple sauce. Recipes below.
Editor’s note: Blue Kitchen is now publishing twice weekly. As always, you’ll find fresh recipes on Wednesdays. On Sundays, we share stories about food—new tools for the kitchen, favorite seasonal ingredients, cookbooks we like, interviews with food professionals and more. Subscribe to our RSS Feed or sign up for email updates, so you don’t miss a thing.
This weird and messy winter just won’t quit us. Today it is a pleasant 50 degrees, and sunny, and all our windows are open. But Saturday was cheerless and frigid, and not that far in our future is “damp and raw,” “periods of rain” and even a nasty “wintry mix.”
The term wintry mix always sounds so dull and industrial. And it always makes me remember Sonny Eliot, a “weathercaster” in the Detroit of my youth, who brought the spirit of playfulness to TV reporting. [click to continue…]